Saam is at 415 Brannan St., in the former Sun and Moon space a block from Oracle Park. It's one of the year's most anticipated openings. Chef Thitid "Ton" Tassanakajohn runs Michelin-starred Le Du and Nusara in Bangkok, and Saam is his first restaurant in the United States. The name means "three" in Thai. His partners are general manager Tee Atthapon, who also runs Song Wat in the Lower Haight and Kan Kiin in Daly City, and chef de cuisine Ty Choosowan.
The pan
Astrid Kane of the San Francisco Standard called it "SF's biggest Thai debut of the year" and also its "biggest letdown." Kane said the tomato in the tuna za jin wasn't ripe, the dry khao soi was mellow and the Javanese beef curry was underseasoned. Prices were the bigger complaint: $39 for squid-ink noodles and $68 for the beef curry. Kane estimated two people could spend nearly $300. The roti and the squid-ink noodle dish fared better, and Kane called the wine list the most thoughtful among the city's new Thai restaurants.
The rave
Eater SF's Dianne de Guzman visited in late August and liked it much more. Her favorites were the tuna za jin ($35), the gaeng kua clams ($29) and the pad ped ped with duck and young coconut ($39). She also recommended the fish-sauce cabbage side ($19). She warned that the shrimp tartare is very spicy. When Eater visited, drinks were limited to wine, a few beers and three wine-based "cocktails," with a full cocktail program planned. Saam also sometimes has sato, a Thai sticky-rice wine, so ask whether it's in stock.
The takeaway
Eater warned diners not to expect pad Thai or tom yum. The Standard described the menu as a showcase for coriander and makrut lime. Tassanakajohn told the Standard that coriander root is "our key ingredient" and that he has been adjusting the menu based on feedback.